Changing Color Mid-Row with Slip Stitch

Mee-ow to you all, it is I, Mimi, once again. Tea anyone

Today I’m going to show you another tricky use for slip stitch.

There are several techniques for changing colors mid-row, and this is one of them. The trick is, when you crochet this way, you don’t actually change the color mid-row, it only looks that way. What you are really doing is attaching a second row to the first with extra chain and slip stitches.

Here’s an example of how it can look when it is finished.

Pattern 43 v3

So how do you do it?

You start with a block of rows in the first color like this:

2016 201

Then you slip stitch into the last chain stitch of the block with the new color and add however many more chain stitches you require, like this:

Next you add a row of stitches (the same size stitches as your original block) working your way back to your original chain in the new color.

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The next thing to do is secure the top of that stitch with a slip stitch into the side of the same height stitch in the previous color to combine the 2 colors into one row securely.

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You then do your turning chain with one stitch less and replace the top stitch with another slip stitch into the other colored stitch beside it in the new row.

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From there you turn and continue the row.

You can repeat this for however many rows you need to create the desired effect of a 2 color row.

2016 208

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing a Row in One Place and Starting in Another with Slip Stitch

Mee-ow, it is I, Mimi.

WP_20160408_001

Today I’m going to teach you a wonderful thing you can do with a tiny little stitch called slip stitch, sl st for short.

Sometimes when we crochet we want to start the next line in a different place to where we finished it.

If we want to make it longer we can simply add more chain at the end of the previous row like this (no slip stitches required)

If you want to finish in a longer place and start again further in you can finish off and start again, but that is too messy when there is a much  more suitable solution that looks is easier and looks better like this.

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So how do you do it? You start a new row adding a sl st to the top of each stitch you don’t want to increase, like this.

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I did this example in a separate color so you can see what I’m doing, but usually it would look like this – a seamless edge.

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Once you reach the start of the next row you do your turning ch and continue on happily with your project.

 

 

 

 

 

Working in a really big round

Mee-ow to you all. It is I, Mimi. Mimi the model

Today I’m going to show you some tricks for working in a really big round. The sort of round I mean is when there are 50 or more chain stitches in the initial ring.

The first thing you need is two balls of the same color yarn.

Start by doing the foundation chain as specified in the pattern, however when it says to join the ring I want you to pause and put a safety pin in the end to stop it unraveling.

L5 Round 1

 

Next get the second ball of yarn and attach a ch stitch to the first of the foundation ch at the opposite end to the safety pin.

L5 Round 2L5 Round 3

 

 

 

 

Now do your turning chain for the start of the row and stitch all the stitches in the row up to the end where the safety pin is waiting.

L5 Round 4L5 Round 5

 

 

 

Count your stitches carefully to see that they are all there. If you have made a mistake you can undo the safety pin and add or subtract any missing stitches.

L5 Round 6

When you are satisfied, do a slip stitch from the end loop of the foundation ch into the first ch like this, making sure there are no twists in the circle you are making.

L5 Round 7L5 Round 8

 

 

 

 

 

Finish off the end so that the first ball of yarn is no longer attached.

Then turn the work upside down and do a slip stitch into the top turning ch on the first row worked.

L5 Round 10

You have completed Round 1, do your turning ch for Round 2 and continue on your way!

Any questions?

Crocheting Edges Together

Mee-ow, it is I, Mimi once again. Tea anyone

Today I’m going to show you how we crochet two pieces of crochet together by joining them along their edges.

 

 

Position the two pieces so that the sides you want to crochet together are one on top of the other and are ready to be joined from right to left.

If you want the finished join to show on the front like this,

L4 Joining 6

put the backs of each piece together.

If you want to put the join on the back so it doesn’t show on the front like in this granny square rug,

L4 Joining 8put the fronts together and crochet from the back of the top piece.

Once your two pieces are placed one on top of the other, you are ready to join. Whether you are attaching a new yarn to join with or continuing on with one you were already using, you should have one loop on the hook as usual.

L4 Joining 1

Insert the hook through a stitch on both the top and bottom piece (the pale orange two) and draw yarn through them like this.

L4 Joining 2

L4 Joining 3L4 Joining 4L4 Joining 5Sometimes you will have a nice row edge to insert the hook into and you can pick up the top loop of each stitch you want to crochet together and crochet them together perfectly evenly.

L4 Joining 7

But sometimes you will have side seems where the loops may not match up so precisely. Just do your best to keep it even – put one stitch in the side of each sc and 2 or 3 stitches in the side of each dc, depending on the look you want. The key is to be consistent and keep the sides matched so they  end together.

Usually when joins are being made a slip stitch is used, but you can use a single crochet or even half double crochet to make a clearly marked edge out of the join.

The edge in the granny square is a slip stitch, the edge in the striped example is a single crochet edge.

L4 Joining 8L4 Joining 6Any questions?

Decreasing at the beginning of the row

Mee-ow,

L3 Decrease 1

it is I, Mimi, once again.

We are working on a great new project that involves one way of decreasing at the beginning of the row, so I thought I’d show you that too.

 

 

As you can see here the rows are decreasing steadily in a straight line.

L3 Decrease 2

The pattern says 3dctog, but because it is the beginning of the row we start it with turning ch instead of a dc, but we only use 2 turning ch not the usual 3.

L3 Decrease 3

Then we continue as if doing 2dctog , like this:

L3 Decrease 5

L3 Decrease 4

 

 

 

Any questions?

 

Decreasing Stitches Within the Row

Mee-ow to you all. It is I, Mimi.

008Naturally since I showed you how to increase stitches yesterday, today you’ll want to know how to decrease stitches. When working within the row there are 2 ways.

The first and most often used is to crochet two (or more) stitches together and it is written in patterns as tog, eg 2dctog.

To do this we start the first stitch but we do not finish it and instead keep the last two loops on the hook like this:

L2 Decrease 1

Then we start a new stitch in the next loop along on the previous row like this:

L2 Decrease 2 When we have 3 loops on the hook we pull the yarn through to complete the job.

L2 Decrease 3

Now if you look at the stitch we have just made closely, you will see that even though there are two stitches below there is only one loop, therefor only one stitch will be crocheted in the next row.

L2 Decrease 4

So that is crocheting stitches together.

The other way to decrease is to leave out or skip (sk) a stitch entirely like this:

L2 Decrease 5

This may seem easier, but this technique is not usually used because it leaves holes.

However, in certain pattern styles, such as lace or the zig zag of Chevron where the missed stitch(es) creates a V pattern, this second decreasing stitch approach is used.

L2 Decrease 6

Any questions?

Eyelet Scarf Tutorial – 5. Changing Color

DSC00001Woof and welcome, it’s Olive the dog here showing you how to make the Eyelet Scarf – let’s see how your first 17 rows went… all good? Congratulations. This is how mine is looking.

Lesson 5A

OK so the next thing to do, is to check your rows by counting them. When you are crocheting you can save yourself time by only counting the rows in the current section. For example after your 2 rows of eyelets count 5 wide rows to reach the top of the section. Then check that there is a short ridge – a row of sc – between each one. But you must end on a wide row.

When you think you’re at the top of Row 17 count ALL the rows a couple of times from the bottom to be certain.

The next thing we do is repeat row 2-17. Make sure you are starting with Row 2 – a sc row – and not Row 1 – a dc row. And that Row 3 – the first row of eyelets is – the SECOND row you make.

Lesson 5B

Then you should be right to just follow your nose, I mean the pattern. So now do 2 rows of eyelets, and 5 wide dc rows (always checking there is a sc row in between) and I’ll meet you at row 33. AFTER you’ve counted them from Row 1-33 to make sure you’ve done them all.

Lesson 5CGreat!

And now we’re going to do another 9 rows and a color change.  Make absolutely sure you’ve done Rows 1-42 and you’re about to start Row 43 first.

Now there are numerous ways to change color but we’re going to use Emma’s favorite.  It actually starts on the last stitch of the row before so undo one sc. Next go to make a sc but don’t quite complete it. STOP when you have 2 loops on the hook like this:

Lesson 5D

Then put the second color on your yarn holding paw … I mean hand, and pull the new color through the 2 loops to complete the stitch like this:

Lesson 5E

Pull both color ends to tidy up the stitch, and you are ready for your turning ch in the new color!

Lesson 5G

So now go ahead and finish the first row in the new color. It should look like this.

Lesson 5H

And that is all you need to know to get to the end of the scarf! Happy hooking and I’ll see you when you reach the end so I can show you how to finish it off.

Until next time …. Woof!

Olive paw 2

OLIVE